Category Archives: Articles

Fermenting a Revolution

fermenting-a-revolutionAs a Sonoma County, California, native, I am no stranger to fermentation.  My dad used to make his own wine and beer in the garage of our home. Weekends often included jaunts to favorite wineries where my sister Sarah and I could play in the gardens. Only once did we mortify our parents by throwing rocks in a fishpond (I still contend Sarah started it).

Wine and the fermentation process were everywhere, driving our local economy. I assumed all 8-year-olds could cite the difference between a Zinfandel and Petite Syrah. It seemed totally normal.

While I was a child in Northern California, a place synonymous with wine production, George Killmer was half a world away in Japan and Korea, the latter locale having its own ubiquitous fermented fare: kimchi.

cutting-cabbage
Killmer cutting fresh Napa cabbage.

Kimchi is largely considered the national food of Korea. It takes many forms, but most commonly it’s a spicy fermented cabbage, traditionally served with white rice.

Killmer grew up with kimchi. He’s gone through phases when he didn’t eat it much, but now he devours it regularly. “If you don’t have kimchi,” Killmer says, “you’re having a bad day.”

Killmer is “hapa haole,” a colloquial term for someone who is part Caucasian and part another ethnicity. His mother is Korean, and his dad is a Caucasian former U.S. government contractor. Growing up, kimchi was everywhere. As a kid he even ate the spicy cabbage his mother made in oatmeal for breakfast. Her recipe for kimchi is the foundation for Jincha Kimchi, the small business he runs with his partner, Jamie-Lynn Gomes. Gomes did not have regular access to kimchi in her youth. She is part Hawaiian and graduated from Kamehameha Schools. She recalls how her mother’s Korean friend would gift a jar of kimchi once or twice a year. It was a treat, not a given. This aromatic side dish had yet to develop a place in larger restaurants or markets in the Islands.

Ready access, however, can have some drawbacks, which Killmer knew well. “When I was growing up, it was embarrassing,” he says. “It was always like, Don’t let people see the kimchi.” It was a source of shame to have something so different in his home. By this point, his family had moved stateside after time spent in Japan and Korea. Living in the Pacific Northwest as a teen, Killmer wanted to fit in. Kimchi was “stinky cabbage” that looked, tasted and smelled weird to his friends.

Then something interesting happened. Killmer became a chef who worked in the Mid-Atlantic region. He started seeing kimchi outside of Korean markets and restaurants. Suddenly it was gaining mainstream popularity with eateries for a simple reason: People liked it.

Killmer pours ground red chili peppers in a mixture of garlic, fish sauce and a secret ingredient to form a paste.
Killmer pours ground red chili peppers in a mixture of garlic, fish sauce and a secret ingredient to form a paste.

With this surge in popularity, Killmer returned to his childhood staple. It no longer held a stigma as a smelly cabbage. Killmer moved to Hawaii 10 years ago, where he met Gomes. They started Jincha Kimchi in June 2015.

Their process begins with only local, fresh produce, including Napa cabbage, ginger and garlic. “It’s the quality of our ingredients that makes our kimchi so good,” says Gomes.

Gomes carefully massages the chili paste into brined cabbage.
Gomes carefully massages the chili paste into brined cabbage.

It’s more than the ingredients, though. There is tremendous care in how they make each batch. It can take up to nine hours to make. Killmer says it’s something “deep in my soul,” that drives him to keep making and selling kimchi. The pair makes roughly 100 pounds of the fermented and pungent cabbage every two weeks from their 500-square-foot kitchen.

With ingredients in hand, Killmer and Gomes start making kimchi by carefully washing then cutting the cabbage. It then soaks in a saltwater brine for two to five hours, by far the most time intensive step of the process.

Fresh sprigs of herbs are added after the cabbage and chili paste are fully integrated.
Fresh sprigs of herbs are added after the cabbage and chili paste are fully integrated.

Killmer starts by cutting the cabbage to soak while Gomes preps a fish sauce. The sauce is made with kelp, green onions and dried anchovies that Killmer’s mother brings with her from Korea. It’s a fragrant mix.

With fresh fish sauce in hand, Gomes and Killmer begin prepping the kimchi paste with which they will slather the cabbage. Each ingredient is carefully cleaned and measured. The paste is made of garlic, ginger, herbs, fermented baby shrimp, fish sauce and, of course, dried spicy red chili peppers.

Today, most kimchi is spicy and colored bright red from chili peppers. This wasn’t always the case. Chili peppers aren’t native to Korea. It wasn’t until trade was established with the Americas in the 1500s that chili peppers became available to the world, eventually changing the nature of kimchi to its current spicy state. Traditionally, it was made seasonally based on whichever vegetables were available. It was not what modern eaters think of as kimchi.

Above, Gomes and illmer pose outside their Kalihi kitchen space.
Above, Gomes and illmer pose outside their Kalihi kitchen space.

Killmer and Gomes definitely make a modern kimchi, though they label the flavor as “local kine,” meaning it’s suited to the tastes of Hawaii residents. Kimchi in Korea tends to have a much stronger flavor, with more spice in the paste. The paste they make is spicy and savory, but not overwhelming.

Once they have the perfect paste, Killmer will check the cabbage to see if it has soaked long enough. The cabbage gets rinsed several times to remove excess salt, and then it’s massaged into the paste until evenly mixed.

At this point it’s edible, but it hasn’t had a chance to ferment yet. Fermentation takes at least two weeks, which is the minimum time they age each batch before sale. It’s left bottled in reusable mason jars in their fridge until ready.

It never tastes the same twice. Like wine, different vintages of kimchi are nuanced. They’ve taken as many controls as possible in refining the recipe, but fermentation can fluctuate, producing variations in each batch. It’s interesting to taste the changes, or even note the development in kimchi as it continues to ferment after purchase.

Kimchi in general is fermented via lactic acid bacteria, which kills off any other bacteria that would normally lead vegetables to rot. This process leaves kimchi with probiotic properties, meaning that kimchi is actually incredibly good for you. It’s also high in vitamins and may prevent certain cancers. Gomes mentions one frequent buyer who says the kimchi helps ease her rheumatoid arthritis.

This is just one process for one kind of kimchi. Jincha makes several varietals, but this is its staple, and what most people think of as kimchi. It’s a big world where kimchi is concerned, and anyone can make it.

As Killmer says, “there’s really no wrong or right way. It just comes down to if you like it or not.”

Jincha Kimchi is available at the Windward Mall farmers’ market. Visit its website for more information at www.jinchakimchi.com.

Forkless Fare

forkless

Giovanni Pastrami

MINI PASTRAMI SLIDERS:The pastrami reuben sandwich is definitely king at Giovanni Pastrami. In fact, the restaurant went through 10,000 pounds of premium pastrami last year specifically because of how popular this delectable, half-pound sandwich is. For some though, a half-pound of pastrami is a little daunting. Fear not! The great chefs behind the reuben have miniaturized it with four bite-size sliders that have all the flavor of the full sandwich.

Round Table Pizza

KING ARTHUR SUPREME AND GOURMET VEGGIE: There are few other foods that are as versatile and universally loved as pizza. There are options for any palate and Round Table Pizza in Waikiki treats pizza like royalty with the King Arthur supreme. This pie has just about everything, including classic red sauce, three cheeses, pepperoni, Italian sausage, salami, Portuguese sausage, mushrooms, green peppers, white onions and black olives. For non-meat lovers, try the gourmet veggie. The veggie pizza has all of the fresh vegetables you know you should eat but probably don’t unless their healthy attributes are cleverly disguised in a pizza.

Beachhouse at the Moana

AFTERNOON TEA ON THE VERANDA: Tea parties aren’t solely the purview of young girls in tiaras. Adults can certainly have tea parties too. Just head to the Moana Surfrider Hotel on any given afternoon for a full tea service at Beachhouse. The fi rst- lady tea service (pictured)  includes your choice of tea, sparkling rosé, fresh berries with crème fraiche and brown sugar, miniature sandwiches and stunning pastries.

Tommy Bahama

AHI TUNA TACOS: These tacos are Mexican fare with an Asian twist. Crisp wonton shells replace a traditional tortilla in Tommy Bahama’s tuna tacos. Tacos come with rare tuna, Island slaw and a wasabi-avocado pur´ee. They’re a perfect snack when you’re feeling peckish, or a delicious start to any meal.

Rum Fire

TATAS: Tater tots may make you think of elementary school lunch ladies in mesh caps, but they’ve certainly grown to a gourmet affair beyond a typical lunch lady’s abilities with Rumfi re’s tatas. These spuds are drizzled in truffl e oil then tossed with parmesan and sea salt. Eating just one isn’t an option. You’ll want to fi nish the whole basket.

Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Barum Fire

DRAGONFLY ROLL: Usually eaten with chopsticks, the dragonfly roll is a distinctly forkless bit of Japanese cuisine. This classic roll features spicy tuna and cucumber inside and Hawaiian ahi tuna, avocado, masago and sweet Thai chili aioli on top. Sansei features only top-quality ingredients in its award-winning sushi.

East Meets West

East-West

Errant scholars claim Marco Polo introduced noodles to Italy after a long sojourn in China. This is probably more myth than reality, but, in antiquity two geographically disparate lands were known to produce noodle dishes: Italy and China.

Today, noodle dishes are a worldwide affair, though they are typically categorized as either vaguely European or Asian in flavor. Hawaii has long been a melting pot of cultures, and Waikiki dining takes that to a new level. Restaurants here have all styles of noodles, from classically styled Italian cuisine and traditional Chinese dishes to Pacific Rim fusion.

Try some of these Island-inspired takes on one of the most popular forms of food in the world. Pro tip: Grab an entrée with fresh fish or other ocean dwellers for a noodle experience you could only find in Waikiki.

Linguine-all-aragosta-e-granchio
Linguine all’aragosta e granchio

Fresco Italian Restaurant
Linguine all’aragosta e granchio: The editor and photographer for this magazine are often invited to try dishes during photo shoots. Generally, they only take a slight sampling. This pasta they not only devoured, they fought for the last bite. The Maine lobster is perfectly done and the tomato cream
sauce may actually be divine. A soy tobiko garnish is an inspired Asian twist to this Italian linguine.

Lo mein and Singapore street noodles

P.F. Chang’s
Lo mein and Singapore street noodles: P.F. Chang’s is one of America’s favorite Chinese-inspired restaurants for a reason. The food is consistently tasty and the Waikiki location offers some local flair only found here. The lo mein is a tried and tested favorite. These slightly thicker noodles are tossed with soy sauce, egg, fresh veggies and your choice of beef, pork, chicken or shrimp. Singapore street noodles are a thinner rice noodle with curry sauce, chicken, shrimp and vegetables. Either dish will keep a noodle lover happy. Try one or order both to share family-style around the table.

Spaghetti and meatballs

Il Lupino
Spaghetti and meatballs: Nothing says Italian more than spaghetti and meatballs. While not a traditional menu item, Il Lupino will add its veal, pork and beef meatballs to any pasta. These massive meatballs are in no danger of rolling away from a casual sneeze, though they are all covered in cheese. Delicious parmesan to be exact. Il Lupino’s spaghetti with meatballs leaves nothing to be desired, except perhaps a longing for a larger  stomach.

Hot udon with shrimp tempura

Miyako
Hot udon with shrimp tempura:  tunning ocean views and a romantic air aren’t the only things Miyako has to offer. The traditional Japanese cuisine will make even sushi-shy individuals into sashimi (raw fish) fiends. Hot udon soup comes with thick noodles in a savory broth. It’s paired with deepfried shrimp tempura and dipping sauce. Scrumptious and satisfying, this soup-and-shrimp combo is a fully cooked option if raw fish isn’t for you.

Spaghetti alla pescatora

Arancino
Spaghetti alla checca: Sometimes, a simple spaghetti dish is all you need. Arancino’s Spaghetti alla checca is just that. Spaghetti noodles, fresh mozzarella, basil and a classic tomato sauce come together in this elegant and thoroughly delicious pasta. Spaghetti alla pescatora: Seafood lovers will rejoice in this spaghetti dish that features  shrimp, calamari, live clams, mussels and a garlicky white wine sauce. It’s clear why this pasta is consistently a guest favorite. Be sure to bring a camera, this dish is a feast for the eyes as well.

At the Heart of Kualoa Ranch

kualoa-ranch

You may know Kualoa Ranch as the site where countless movies and television shows have been filmed, including Jurassic Park, Lost and Fifty First Dates. But to many of the ranch employees, film shoots and guest tours are the public side of the ranch that exists to keep the working ranch alive and running.

“Everybody knows us for Jurassic Park,” says Taylor Kellerman,  director of diversified agriculture and land stewardship. “But there’s really no other place like this.”

It’s easy to see why. With stunning views of mountains and ocean, Kualoa Ranch is easily one of the most photogenic places on Earth. The ranch is nearly 4,000 acres of undeveloped land that encompass the Hakipuu, Kualoa and Kaaawa valleys.

kualoa-ranch3

There are other families or trusts on Oahu that own larger parcels of land in Hawaii, but Kualoa is unique because it is still a functional ranch and nature reserve without urbanization in prime Oahu real  state.

Established in 1850, the property was initially used as a sugar plantation. Ruins still stand from Oahu’s first sugar mill located near the entrance. After several years of poor rainfall, sugar planting came to a halt and cattle ranching was introduced.

Today, the ranch has more than 600 head of cattle, and harvests roughly eight animals a month. As Kellerman says, the cattle are “grass fed and grass fi nished,” meaning they are raised freerange over the grassy slopes of the ranch all the way up through harvest. Almost all cows are grass fed at some point in their lives, but not all are allowed to graze their entire lives.

The cows are rotated every fi ve to seven days through different pastures to avoid over-grazing. Most pastures offer ocean vistas or panoramic Koolau mountain range views. Given the care, location and attention they receive, these must be some of the happiest cows in the world.

Interspersed throughout the pastures are groves of papaya, bananas, pineapple and other tropical plants. The goal is to utilize as much land as is possible with diversified crops. Produce is usually sold to local markets or restaurants.

Robust chickens are rotated through groves and their eggs are collected for consumption. Their grazing is an eco-friendly way to help manage weeds and pests while providing fertilizer. This type of nature-based solution to weed and pest management is  epresentative of how Kualoa Ranch solves problems. The ranch also makes its own mulch and manure in an attempt to employ the full ecosystem Kualoa Ranch has to offer.

baby-shrimp
Baby shrimp being prepared for transfer to a shrimp pond.

Part of that ecosystem is the Molii fi shpond. This is one of the few remaining ancient fi shponds on Oahu. It’s an estimated 800 years old and roughly 125 acres. In these historic waters, oyster farmers grow live oysters in floating cages that never rest on the bottom of the pond. Roughly 1,000 oysters are harvested weekly for local consumers and restaurant use. It is the only Department of Health certified oyster farm on Oahu.

Chickens grazing in a papaya grove
Chickens grazing in a papaya grove

Like the chickens, these oysters serve a dual purpose. “Each oyster can filter 50 gallons of water,” says Kellerman.

That helps to keep the fishpond waters clean for use by future generations. The fishpond is also home to one of Kualoa Ranch’s  ultural tours, where guests can enjoy the pond’s serenity while  earning about Hawaiian aquaculture.

Education about farming and Hawaiian history is vital to the ranch. In addition to its tours, local school groups can come to learn about nature and some of the farming work done on the ranch. While  here, local keiki (children) can visit a well-loved petting zoo where they can get a personal introduction to farm animals.

Past the petting zoo that’s used for educational purposes are several small ponds for raising Pacifi c white tiger shrimp and tilapia. One unique aspect of Kualoa shrimp is that, when restaurants or markets
call in an order, the shrimp are caught that morning and served the same day. These are some of the freshest shrimp available on Oahu.

A fresh oyster from the Molii pond on a taro leaf
A fresh oyster from the Molii pond on a taro leaf

When chefs call in an order for shrimp, oysters or tilapia, sometimes they’ll also ask for naturally occurring plants like coconut or breadfruit that grow on Kualoa Ranch but aren’t specifically farmed. “We’ll get whatever we can for you,” says Kellerman, even if that means doing some foraging to find high quality plants when requested.

Despite its size and commitment to the land, Kualoa Ranch doesn’t produce a large quantity of food.

Banana trees growing  near the edge of a mountain near a cow pasture.
Banana trees growing near the edge of a mountain near a cow pasture.

“We grow these killer quality products, but our volume isn’t huge,” says Kellerman.

That’s why Kualoa Ranch recently started food-tasting tours to give guests the opportunity to try the different foods the ranch yields. This allows visitors to see the working side of the ranch and taste the sweet and savory results of its sustainable farming.

If you’d like to try Kualoa products, prime steaks, oysters and shrimp can be ordered online and picked up at the ranch. The gift shop will sometimes carry fresh foods, and will almost always have frozen ground beef available for purchase. Burgers from the café are all from Kualoa ground beef.

Kualoa Ranch is more than a tourist attraction or Hollywood set. Chatting with employees makes it clear many feel they work the land in stewardship to maintain a part of Hawaiian history that is quickly disappearing. The owners employ four full-time staff whose sole purpose is to maintain and improve the property, often restoring streams or fields that are in disarray. These positions are completely privately funded and are one more way Kualoa Ranch attempts to keep the land timeless so that it can be enjoyed for generations to come.

On an island where space is in high demand and limited availability, Kualoa Ranch is firm in its adherence to non-urbanization and land stewardship. The ranch has evolved to be self-sustaining now that farming isn’t as economically viable as it once was.

As Kellerman says, “Every seat on a tour that’s sold keeps the land in perpetuity.”

Beyond Brunch at Cinnamon’s

beyond-brunch-at-cinnamons

For over 30 years, Cinnamon’s has been a staple of Windward Oahu’s breakfast and lunch scene. Always popular with locals, the restaurant has become increasingly popular with tourists in the past five years, sometimes causing diners to wait up to two hours for a table on busy mornings.

Owners Puna and Cricket Nam found themselves in a happy predicament. With such large crowds, “it was no longer a personal feeling,” he recounts. He wanted to maintain steady business, but also reduce congestion so that everyone could get a table in a reasonable amount of time.

The solution: a second location. In November of 2014, Cinnamon’s in Waikiki opened at the Ilikai hotel. This second location carries over the original restaurant’s breakfast delights, including multiple award-winning pancakes and benedicts.

Guava-Chiffon-Pancakes
Guava Chiffon Pancakes

The delectable guava chiffon pancakes recently placed No. 8 in Time Out Magazine’s national best pancake ranking. You simply have to try them. Sweet and tangy guava sauce cascades over fluffy pancakes all topped with a dollop of whipped cream. Or if chocolate is more your flavor, try Puna’s favorite, the red velvet pancake, that took six months to perfect.

In addition to breakfast and lunch, the Waikiki Cinnamon’s also offers dinner, a first for the restaurant. Kalbi short ribs have quickly become a house favorite for dinner, and the restaurant includes a lighter side menu for the health conscious among us. For the non-health conscious, know that pancakes are served all day.

With gorgeous harbor views, Cinnamon’s is growing in popularity in Waikiki not only for its comfort food, but also for ambiance. Friday evenings tend to be busy as diners can view fireworks from the Hilton Hawaiian Village. It also hosts live music with background artists playing Monday through Thursday from 5:30 to 8:00 p.m. Additionally, the Ilikai has live music every Friday and Saturday that can be enjoyed at Cinnamon’s from 6 to 9 p.m.

Try out Cinnamon’s for ono local grinds (delicious local foods) any day of the week. Friendly staff, good food and a beautiful setting combine for a perfect dining experience.

Boneless Kal-bi Short Ribs
Boneless Kal-bi Short Ribs

Local Grinds

local-grinds

In Hawaii, look out for ono grinds or “tasty food.” Eat like a local on your stay and try some of the different and unique cuisines the Islands have to offer. Here are a few dishes that you might see on menus and think: “what’s that?”

HAUPIA:
In its truest form, haupia is a coconut milk based traditional Hawaiian dessert with a texture similar to flan. The white gelatinous squares are a sweet luau staple. As with most traditional fare, it’s been given a modern kick in many restaurants that serve haupia pie with added flavors like chocolate or sweet potato. Pictured is a version of haupia pie with purple sweet potato mash and a macadamia crust.

BLUE HAWAII:
No drink conjures images of crystal clear waves like a Blue Hawaii. Legendary bartender Harry Yee poured the first Blue Hawaii at what is now the Hilton Hawaiian Village. Visitors often asked for local style cocktails, but in the 1950s there was no such thing as Hawaiian cocktails, leaving Yee to often create them on the spot. He made the Blue Hawaii through experimenting with Blue Curaçao, vodka and rum to concoct one of the world’s most famous exotic drinks.

HULI HULI CHICKEN:
It’s hard to go wrong with a well basted grilled chicken. Huli-Huli chicken ™ is just that. It starts with a perfect sauce. Recipes vary, but usually include shoyu (soy sauce), brown sugar, ginger, garlic, ketchup and sherry. The chicken is marinated in this salty-sweet sauce then constantly basted with it while grilled. The chicken is turned regularly on the grill hence the name “huli-huli,” which means: “to turn.”

SAIMIN:
Similar to Japanese ramen, saimin is a broth-based soup with egg noodles and various meats, often including fish cake. As with most local grinds, saimin is influenced by many cultures. It borrows from ramen, Chinese mein and Filipino pancit. It’s developed into a beloved comfort food in Hawaii.

POI:
In ancient Hawaii, if a bowl of poi was present and uncovered for eating, any arguments had to stop in respect of this revered staple. Poi is still a prominent part of Hawaiian culture and cuisine. It’s made by cooking and then pounding the root of the taro plant while adding water until it reaches the desired viscous consistency. When fresh, poi has a relatively neutral flavor. Over time, it becomes increasingly sour, which some prefer. Try it with a hint of sugar or as a side to lomilomi salmon.

TARO CHIPS:
Taro chips are a modern twist on a traditional Hawaiian staple. The root or corm of the taro plant is peeled, thinly sliced, then either fried or baked to crisp perfection. You’ll taste salt and sweet as you bite into purple-streaked goodness. These tasty snacks are found at most local grocery stores or as a side at a variety of Waikiki restaurants.

GARLIC SHRIMP:
Hawaii is one of the lead suppliers of shrimp in the U.S., so it should be no surprise that a delectable dish, such as the garlic shrimp, has come to satisfy locals and visitors alike. The shrimp, best when harvested from local farms, is pan fried with fresh garlic and laid on steaming white rice, often paired with mixed greens or macaroni salad. These fragrant crustaceans combine a blend of sea taste with rich garlic butter.

SHAVE ICE:
Nothing satisfies a day in the sun and sweet cravings like shave ice. Unlike Mainland snow cones, shave ice has a finer consistency and usually has your choice of ice cream or azuki beans (sweet red beans), or both as its base, and shaved ice is piled high on top. Then comes the fun part. Customers can top their shave ice with any of their favorite flavors. The popular “rainbow” is a combination of strawberry, pineapple or lemon, and vanilla. Add a “snow-cap” — a drizzle of sweetened condensed milk on top — to finish off this cold confection.

LAULAU:
Laulau translates to “leaf, leaf,” named after the taro leaves used to wrap the meat. Preparation starts with putting Hawaiian salt on either pork or chicken and butterfish, known locally as walu. The meat and fish are wrapped first in taro leaves, then ti leaves to help heat the meat while it’s being steamed. Traditionally laulau was steamed in an imu, a pit dug underground with heated lava rocks, on a layer of banana leaves. The bitterness of the taro leaves paired with the saltiness of the meat and butterfish make for a unique taste dating back to ancient Hawaii. These mouth-watering bundles can be found on most Hawaiian food menus or at a luau.

LOCO MOCO:
There are many foods in Hawaii that are considered ono, but nothing does delicious super-sized like the loco moco. The palate pleaser originated in Hilo where local diners desired a taste of something different. The savory dish didn’t disappoint, and can now be found across the Islands. It starts with a bed of rice, topped with a hamburger patty, crowned with your choice of eggs, and smothered in gravy. A loco moco is commonly considered a breakfast item, but can be ordered any time of day. It’s perfect for a famished visitor.

poke-postPOKE:
Poke, (pronounced poh kay) is ubiquitous in any local gathering. No party would be complete without a tray of the savory fresh fish. Poke means “to cut or slice,” and the dish certainly features precision blade work to create perfectly cubed chunks of raw fish that is tossed with soy sauce, onion and other spices. If raw fish isn’t your favorite, there are other types of poke, including tofu poke or shrimp poke. There are also different flavors from spicy to slightly sweet using various types of fish, although ahi is most common. With all of the types of poke available, there’s certain to be one to suit your desires.

Screen Shot 2016-02-01 at 1.08.27 AMMALASADAS:
Originally from Portugal, malasadas made their way to the islands with Portuguese plantation workers in the late 1800’s. These donut-like confections are made from fried dough sprinkled with granulated sugar. Other variations have fillings such as chocolate or custard.

Screen Shot 2016-02-01 at 1.11.03 AMSPAM MUSUBI:
Spam isn’t native to Hawaii, but it certainly has found a home here. The salty canned-meat has become a local favorite, even inspiring an annual Spam Jam Festival in April. Spam musubi is the quintessential spam treat, consisting of sticky rice topped with fried spam and wrapped with nori (seaweed).

LOMILOMI SALMON:
This popular Hawaiian side-dish is often paired with poi. Lomilomi salmon is a mixture of raw, salted salmon with diced tomatoes and sweet Maui onions. Sometimes it also includes pepper flakes for a little spice. This dish is usually spotted at a luau or in the poke section at grocery stores.

PLATE LUNCH:
Plate lunch is as simple as it is delicious. It usually consists of white rice, macaroni salad, and a choice of meat. Popular meats are steak, garlic shrimp, chicken katsu or kalua pork to name a few. Some of the best plate lunches are found on food trucks around the island, including Oahu’s North Shore. If you don’t want to take the drive to the North Shore, check out Pau Hana Market on Waikiki’s Beachwalk Dr. to try food trucks in a permanent installation.

Paradise in a Glass

Screen Shot 2016-02-01 at 12.22.42 AM
Before you ever landed in Hawaii, you could see it in your head: you, sitting under an umbrella on Waikiki Beach, with an island cocktail in your hand, perfectly adorned with a purple orchid and miniature umbrella. You just know this will be bliss.

But where should you go for your perfect island concoction? Break free from the typical Mai Tai and try some exotic flavors on your vacation.

Many of the eating (and drinking) establishments in Waikiki try to blend local flavors to create a uniquely Hawaiian taste. Enjoy fresh pineapple, lilikoi, guava and other luscious fruits blended creatively into martinis or margaritas.

You might also try drinks with Island-made liquors, such as Ocean Organic Vodka, Whaler’s Dark Rum or Ko Hana Rum. Step out of your comfort zone and let loose with some of these adults-only beverages.

 

Screen Shot 2016-02-01 at 12.26.16 AMRumfire
Sand and Sea

If you’ve got at least two people in your party, you can have one of the jumbo drink “bowls.” The Sand and Sea uses Hawaiian-made Deep Island Rum, pineapple and passion fruit juices, sweet and sour and a dash of Dekuyper Blue Curacao. This liquid aloha is garnished with fresh pineapple slices and tiny umbrellas.

 

Screen Shot 2016-02-01 at 12.28.49 AMRumfire
Lilikoi Cosmo

Rumfire isn’t just a spot with spectacular ocean views and the best tater tots you’ve ever had. They also have an extensive cocktail list with lots of local flair. The Lilikoi Cosmo would make Carrie Bradshaw swoon. It uses Hawaiian Ocean Organic Vodka to start the local experience and adds lilikoi puree for a sweet touch, but still offers the classic cranberry twist to give it a pink hue.

 

Screen Shot 2016-02-01 at 12.30.42 AMTommy Bahama
Pineapple Paradisio

This popular drink is a feast for the senses. You’ll be torn between wanting to take its picture and taking that first sip. It starts with Bacardi Pineapple, then adds in St. Germaine Elderflower, Crème de Banana, Scratch Sour, and finishes off with actual fresh-cut pineapple (in fact all drinks at Tommy Bahama are made with fresh-squeezed ingredients). The pineapple blend is superb and a great way to start (or finish!) the night.

 

Screen Shot 2016-02-01 at 12.34.16 AMHeavenly
Big Island Honey
Papaya Sangria

Heavenly is known for using high-quality local ingredients to create fresh and flavorful meals. Just imagine what that creativity can do for a cocktail. The Big Island Honey Papaya Sangria is phenomenal. This atypical sangria blends the ingredients together to a smoothie-like consistency, instead of leaving chunks of fruit. You’ll never want another traditional sangria again after trying this.

 

Screen Shot 2016-02-01 at 12.35.47 AMSurf Lanai
Royal Mai Tai

If you’re going to have a Mai Tai in Waikiki, you might as well have the king of Mai Tai’s at the Royal Hawaiian’s Surf Lanai. All of the juices that go into this island favorite are fresh squeezed to make the flavor pop. All of the liquors involved are also top-notch including Bacardi Superior, Cointreau and Amaretto di Disaronno liqueur topped with Island-crafted Whaler’s Dark Rum.

 

Screen Shot 2016-02-01 at 12.40.37 AMTiki’s Grill & Bar
Pele’s Love

Oahu-crafted Ko Hana Rum and watermelon nectar- need I say more? Tiki’s Grill & Bar has more than their iconic tiki glasses and views of Waikiki Beach. Pele’s Love will make you feel the passion with fresh watermelon chunks and local rum. If Pele’s love doesn’t strike your fancy, rest assured that something on Tiki’s extensive cocktail list will.

Carnivorous CREATIONS

carnivorous-creations

My grandfather used to love steak.

When asked how he wanted it prepared, he’d request the cow placed on a grill. When it stopped moaning, it was ready. Rare was distinctly best in his book.

If you are also a steak-lover, your stay in Waikiki won’t disappoint. There are plenty of options available. From tri-tip to rib eye, or filet mignon to a classic Hawaiian steak plate lunch, this meat is incredibly versatile.

Whether you like your steak prepared well done or nearly raw like my grandfather, Waikiki has something to offer. Read on for more information about some of our favorite steaks in town.

 

Screen Shot 2016-02-01 at 12.08.50 AM

TIKI’S GRILL & BAR
If you want to enjoy local live music with your meal, head down Kalakaua Ave. to Tiki’s Grill & Bar. Here traditional classics are given a local twist. Take the alae salt (red Hawaiian salt) rubbed and grilled filet mignon. This beauty is served with Kahuku sea asparagus poke, red wine Tahitian luau leaf demi-glace and a sumptuous taro puree. The melting pot of different flavors blends perfectly for a unique take on steak.

 

Screen Shot 2016-02-01 at 12.10.56 AMWOLFGANG’S STEAKHOUSE
When it comes to steak, Wolfgang’s Steakhouse immediately comes to mind. Located in the Royal Hawaiian Center, Wolfgang’s Steakhouse has a classic feel with Brazilian cherry wood floors and alabaster chandeliers. Known for their 28-day dry aged steak, Wolfgang’s is practically synonymous with good steak. Try the filet mignon for a smaller portion, or go all-out with a porterhouse. Either way your taste buds will thank you.

 

Screen Shot 2016-02-01 at 12.12.52 AMTANAKA OF TOKYO
For a less traditional take on steak, head over to Tanaka of Tokyo. Tanaka specializes in teppan-yaki cuisine, where food is prepared on a flat iron grill right at your table. Be prepared for entertainment in addition to good food. The master chefs are adept showmen with impressive knife skills. They create fire “volcanoes” with cut onions and wow guests by twirling knives as they expertly prepare and season each dish. Using only Premium Angus beef and fresh seafood, steak at Tanaka of Tokyo isn’t just delicious, it’s an experience.

 

Screen Shot 2016-02-01 at 12.14.25 AMHY’S STEAKHOUSE
The ambiance at Hy’s transports you to another time – one where gentlemen wore tuxedos to dine and women always came prepared in white gloves. You probably won’t actually see individuals dressed so formally when you visit Hy’s (although the evening waiters do wear tuxes) but you’ll understand the urge to pretend you’re in Downton Abbey. Décor aside, the food is also amazing. Hy’s uses USDA prime beef that is aged and trimmed to perfection in house. The steaks are then grilled over fragrant Hawaiian kiawe wood for a perfect smoky flavor.

 

Screen Shot 2016-02-01 at 12.15.50 AMHAU TREE LANAI
Wander to the New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel for beachside seating at Hau Tree Lanai. Hau Tree’s Black Angus New York Steak is Harris Ranch all-Natural Beef, grilled to perfection. It comes with a red wine reduction sauce that is not only a great accompaniment to the prime steak, you’ll also want to drink it with a straw.

 

Screen Shot 2016-02-01 at 12.17.19 AMTAORMINA SICILIAN CUISINE
Nestled on Lewers St. across from the Waikiki Beach Walk is Taormina Sicilian Cuisine, a delectable Italian restaurant. If you venture to “Le Carni” (meat) in the menu, you will find several choice steaks, including the prime rib eye. This meaty masterpiece is 14 oz. of grilled prime aged rib eye accompanied by the house marinade, fresh vegetables and horseradish. Most of the produce used is also locally sourced to enhance the flavor.

TARO: A Labor of Love

taro-post
Taro is more than a food source in Hawaii – it’s a beloved older brother. Farmers in Hawaii still grow the staple plant in the same way it’s been done for centuries.

 

wakea
Keoki Fukumitsu stands in front of the Koolau Mountains on his farm in Kaneohe.

WAKEA the sky father, had no sons. He and his wife, Papahanaumoku, the Earth mother, had been blessed with the births of Maui and Hawaii Island, but their only human child was a daughter, Ho‘ohokukalani.

As Ho‘ohokukalani grew, so did her beauty. Soon Wakea was rapt with desire. Their union produced Wakea’s first human son, Haloanaka, but alas, the child was stillborn. They buried the child, and in that place, the first kalo (taro) plant grew.

Later, Ho‘ohokukalani and Wakea came together again, and a healthy, human boy was born. This son was Haloa, and he was the first of the Hawaiian ali‘i (chiefs). As Haloa grew, he tended the kalo plant to care for his older brother. Thus kalo is not only the staple of Hawaiian cuisine, it is also the older brother to its people.

The story of taro is dramatic. It shows the importance of the staple plant to early Hawaiian settlers. Taro is not just a plant to be cultivated, it’s a beloved yet departed older brother who needs tending by the Hawaiian people. It makes sense that this plant has been considered a family member, because its growth and processing is a labor of love.

After taking roughly a year to tend and grow, typical taro roots are ready for picking. Ancient Hawaiians used the root, or “corm,” to make the starch staple called poi. This traditional dish is made by pounding cooked corm, and adding water as necessary, until it reaches the desired, viscous consistency.

Poi may be an acquired taste to newcomers, but it is still a fundamental part of Hawaiian cuisine. It can act as a side to lomilomi salmon, or be blended into a modern acai bowl. Fresh poi has a relatively neutral flavor, which makes it easy to add to many meals.

leaf-postTaro isn’t only grown for the corm. Today, as in ancient Hawaii, the taro leaves are used to wrap meats which are then baked to make laulau. Modern restaurants may not bake laulau in an underground imu (oven) as Ancient Hawaiians did, but you’ll still see pork, chicken or fish laulau on many lunch menus.

Taro usage has grown well beyond pounding poi or using the leaves for wrapping food. As a gluten-free starch, taro is also popular as a flour replacement, and is even used to make ice cream and other desserts.

Although taro use has evolved from historic Hawaiian tradition, in many ways, the art of growing taro is much the same as it has been for centuries. One part-Hawaiian farmer, Keoki Fukumitsu, also known as the “Kaloman,” grows taro on his family’s land in Kaneohe. The land has been in Fukumitsu’s family for more than 200 years, since before the reign of Kamehameha.

“I am an individual with ancient upbringing and life-style,” Fukumitsu states. “There’s just a few of us left.” It’s easy to see the truth in his statement when walking between some of the 30 separate lo‘i on his property. Lo‘i are the traditional wetland patches used to grow taro. Canals and streams that flow down from the mountains are harnessed to create marshes that feed the lo‘i. Fukumitsu grows anywhere from a half-dozen to a dozen different taro varietals at any given time in his lo‘i. There are around 87 recognized varietals of taro currently in Hawaii, although there were 300 distinct strains in early Hawaii.

Polynesians are thought to have brought taro plants with them in their canoes as they traversed the Pacific before finally settling in Hawaii. Space was precious in these vessels, which shows again how cherished the plant was. It’s significance then was based on its nutrients. Now it’s valued not only for its flavor and nutrition, but also for its cultural and historic importance as the older brother to the Hawaiian people.

For Fukumitsu, the traditional form of taro farming is worth preserving. His farm serves not only to grow taro; he also opens it up so that participants can come and work the taro patches.

“I’ve had 20,000 participants on this farm,” Fukumitsu says with pride.

While there, participants get hands-on experience in what farming taro was like when the first Hawaiian settlers began forming lo‘i. Many of the participants are young men who want to get in touch with their heritage, according to Fukumitsu, but visitors are also welcome.

Cultural experiences aside, Fukumitsu still runs a working farm. It requires constant tending to produce a crop. Most of his products are sold to restaurants or food trucks. He also harvests the taro leaves for luaus and sometimes also sells to grocers.

Although Fukumitsu the Kaloman is well loved, his farm is not without enemies. In the late 1980s, taro farmers like Fukumitsu started noticing apple snails in their lo‘i, a type of freshwater snail that can actually reach the size of an apple. This invasive species feeds on the corm and young taro stalks, and has impacted many farmers like Fukumitsu. A quick walk through the lo‘i reveals many of the snails that Fukumitsu refers to as “escargot.” These snails have to be picked by hand to maintain the crop. It’s a nuisance, but one with merit if it allows farmers like Fukumitsu to continue their trade.

“Our livelihood and our lifestyle is all saturated around the taro,” says Fukumitsu. “Taro is like Mana: It’s a God-given thing.”

It’s rare to find a plant that is so deeply rooted in the cultural, spiritual and historical identity of a place in the way that taro is loved and revered in Hawaii.

Now, taro is ubiquitous on the Islands. It’s found everywhere from high-end culinary masterpieces in Waikiki to roadside food trucks selling plate lunches. Taro is the definition of a staple food in this lush land.

The love of taro goes back to its birth as the older brother who is cared for. By tending this older brother, the Hawaiian people were provided with sustenance for generations to come.

Fukumitsu plans to keep working his land and opening it up to volunteers with a renewed vigor.

“Some people take a long time to get the picture,” he says. “But when they get it, they’re unstoppable. I’m one of them.”

Interested in trying taro during your stay in Waikiki? Here are just a few options that are available at some of our favorite restaurants.

Screen Shot 2016-01-31 at 11.54.51 PMAzure Restaurant
Creamy Crushed Taro and Brandy (side dish)

Bali Steak & Seafood
Red Curry Seafood Medley (includes taro)

Goofy Café and Dine
Taro Muffin and Kai-Taro Gratin (side dish)

Tiki’s Grill & Bar
Taro Buns and Taro Mash (buns on some burger options, mash is a side dish)

Tropics Bar & Grill
Maui Veggie Burger (taro patty)

Uncle Bo’s
Taro Buns (buns available on some burger options)

While not all restaurants in Waikiki keep taro items on their regular menu, many, such as Roy’s, will have seasonal dishes or specials where taro is center stage.

The Anchor of the Industry

the-anchor-of-the-industry

Hawaii’s seafood lovers consume 42 pounds of fish per person per year, nearly three times the national average. Where does most of Hawaii’s local seafood come from? The Honolulu Fish Auction.

Behind the scenes of Waikiki’s top seafood-serving restaurants is the Honolulu Fish Auction, which supplies up to 100,000 pounds of fresh seafood every day, produced by Hawaiian  fishermen in one of the most intensively studied, monitored and managed  fisheries in the world.  e Honolulu Fish Auction is the anchor of the Honolulu Fishing Village, located at Pier 38 in Honolulu Harbor. It is a fresh fish display auction operated by the United Fishing Agency since 1952 and modeled a er Japan’s tuna auction system,  first introduced to Hawaii in the early 1900s. It is the only fresh tuna auction of its kind in the country.

Locally produced Hawaii seafood is an essential, center-of-the-plate ingredient of Hawaii Regional Cuisine.  e creativity and innovation of Hawaii’s chefs in blending the food cultures and traditions of the Hawaiian Islands with the variety of fresh Hawaii seafood, produce and other local products has resulted in a uniquely Hawaii culinary experience.

Compared to other ports, Honolulu brings in a relatively low volume, but the quality of the catch is one of the highest ranking in the country, and is one of the best suppliers of high quality tuna and sword sh in the world, thanks to the strict regulations imposed on Hawaii’s  fishermen every day to maintain a sustainable fishing practice.  The United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization Code of Conduct for Responsible Fisheries posts qualifications to qualify sustainable fisheries, and Hawaii’s  fisheries pass with flying colors; the same could not be said for imported seafood,  shed under lax laws. If your seafood comes from the Honolulu Fish Auction, you’re in for some of the best  fish in the world.

img01

Hawaii’s seafood industry never sleeps—really!  The fish auction sequence begins when fishing vessels return to port just after midnight. Unloading the vessels begins at about 1 a.m. six days a week. Each  sh is weighed, tagged, displayed and kept clean and cold in the sanitized auction house. Before being offered for sale, each fish is carefully inspected by the auction staff to ensure fish quality and safety. Buyers arrive before the auction begins to inspect the day’s landings. By tradition, the auctioneer rings a brass bell at 5:30a.m. and the bidding begins.  The majority of  fish are sold individually, with seafood wholesalers who serve some of the top restaurants in Hawaii and across the country. Most of the  fish from the Honolulu port are delivered directly to Honolulu’s restaurants, though some is packed up and shipped to distant markets.

Hawaii’s fresh bigeye tuna, sword fish, mahimahi and deepwater bottom fish are among the highest quality available anywhere and are appreciated in the most discriminating seafood markets. Hawaii consumers really know their fish and love it best prepared as sashimi (raw  sh) and poke (Hawaii-style raw  fish). Hawaii residents consume approximately 42 pounds of  sh per person annually, nearly three times the national average, if that’s any testament to the caliber of Hawaii’s seafood industry. With the highest grade  sh ranging up to several thousands of dollars, buyers must be experienced, knowledgeable and decisive.

Educational tours of the Honolulu Fish Auction are available to the public for a nominal fee so you can watch the auction process in person. Learn about the history of longline fishing, pelagic fisheries and bottom fishing in the Hawaiian Islands.  e tour is a wealth of information, from the daily process of a  sherman’s work, how the Hawaii seafood industry  ts into, and stands out from, the national seascape, and what is done to keep Hawaii seafood safe and sustainable.

img02

The efforts and successes of the Honolulu Fishing auction have been monumental, positioning Honolulu as a model for responsible, sustainable  fisheries on an international scale.

img03Located at Pier 38 of Nimitz Highway, the Honolulu Fishing Village is also home to several eateries that o er the freshest of the fresh how much closer can you get without jumping into the ocean, right Take a tour in the morning of the Honolulu Fish Auction, and dine at nearby Nico’s Pier 38 or Uncle’s Fish Market and Grill for Honolulu’s freshest catch.

For the most expertly prepared seafood in Hawaii, check out Waikiki’s top seafood restaurants, starting on page 70. To book an early morning tour of the Honolulu Fish Auction, visit the Hawaii Seafood Council’s website.

www.hawaii-seafood.org